The Right Tool for T.E.W.L

Most of the skin problems (how it looks and feels) are due to overly dry skin.  Of course, drinking more water and eating water laden vegetables and fruit will help the situation, but you also need to use the right skincare products to combat TEWL.  Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is when the water inside you evaporates through your skin. We all lose approximately 1 pint of fluid each day from TEWL.  If you already have dry skin, you’ll lose more, leaving you open to dehydration and infection, as well as make you look older than you are.

TEWL and dehydration are caused mostly by not drinking enough water but also by the lack of humidity in the environment.  Winter dry air and the use of indoor heating increase water loss, drying skin out even faster. Using drying products for acne and oily skin, drinking too much caffeine, pool swimming, illness, hormonal imbalance, smoking, stress and travel are also moisture killers.  To repair the damage done and stop it from progressing, you need to be using skincare products that trap in water, while not clogging pores. 

For most, applying heavy creams can cause more problems: clog pores, acne, milia to name a few.  Try to find products that are well balanced with emollients and oils.  Emollients are ingredients that seal in moisture; my favorite is jojoba oil because it fights bacteria and won’t clog your pores.  Ceramides (lipids) in skincare are also extremely helpful for locking in water.

Once you find products that have the right ingredients, you then have to try them on your own skin to see if your skin reacts well. You need to try a new skincare routine for at least a month before seeing if it’s going to work for you.  Why one month?... because it’s the typical full cycle of your skin.

There is a lot to learn about ingredients: ones that are good for your skin, ones that are bad for your skin and overall health and ones that work well enough together to actually make a difference.  I have researched this for 13 years now, so if you would like specific advice on the right products and ingredients for YOUR skin, please set up a skin assessment and maybe a product assessment (I look over the ingredients of your current products).  There are thousands of brands out there, it pays to have a professional’s advice on skincare products.

Shelly Todd, LE

J Renee Organics
J Renee Skin Clinic
Georgia Esthetician: ES011069
Oregon Esthetician: FT-10153597

Confused Winter Skin

Winter is not your skin’s friend.

In colder temperatures we need to adjust our skincare routine to ensure healthy barrier function. Prolonged exposure to reduced humidity, is a well-known risk factor for AD (Atopic dermatitis). AD increases the natural process of water loss through our skin, which causes dry/itchy skin and signals inflammation (redness). It can also make your body dehydrated and make your lips feel super dry.

To make things worse, as we age, we get dryer as well. Excess dead skin can clog pores and PH levels get less acidic, making skin susceptible to bacterial growth. And this time of year, holiday stress can stimulate oil production. The extra oil produced mingles with the loitering dry skin and you can develop acne. 

This situation is not easy to remedy because lotions and creams can be too thick and cause more acne, while acne medications and products are very drying and cause dry skin to persist or get worse. It’s very important to see a professional esthetician, even just for a skin assessment and product suggestions so that you don’t make your skin worse and end up in the dermatologist’s office for medication. Knowing the proper skin care routine for your skin not only saves you time and money, if handled promptly, it can save you weeks or even months of skin issues. Prevention is always easier and cheaper than reversal.

Tips for preventing skin damage in the winter months:

1: Cleanse. Twice a day and after exercising with a gentle, exfoliating cleanser for your skin type.  

2: Tone. Balance PH levels after cleansing. Rinsing with just water is the worst option when cleansing, water alters healthy PH levels, leaving your skin dry and prone to irritation.

3: Moisturize. You don’t need a night cream/day cream/eye cream...  Shoot for a moisturizer that your skin likes and use it from your chest- up, every day, twice a day.  Make sure it’s right for your skin type and current skin health.

4: WEAR SUNSCREEN!  UV rays cause inflammation, acne scarring, wrinkles, age spots and cancer. I’m not a fan of 2 in 1 moisturizer with sunscreen, they don’t work well for moisture or for sun protection (think all-in-one printers, something is always on the fritz). Instead, use SPF of at least 30 on your face (over your moisturizer) when you’re going to be outdoors; if only inside the whole day, skip this step.

5: Schedule an exfoliating skincare service like a peel, facial or microdermabrasion. This will remove dead skin and unclog pores, kill bad bacteria that causes acne and allows moisturizer to soak in better, saving you money on products.

• Shelly Todd, Esthetician

Atopic Dermatitis